A Brief History of Mourning Brooches

The practice of mourning and remembrance through the medium of craft, specifically jewellery making and ornamentation, have its origins as early as Ancient Rome and Egypt where jewellery was used as totems of remembrance . This particular style of brooch appears to have its roots in the Nineteenth Century during the Victorian period. This brooch is akin to that of a ‘mourning/ pendant brooch’. The defining characteristics of these brooches became synonymous with the Victorian period where they were widely embraced, and popularised by Queen Victoria after the passing of her husband Prince Albert. Decorative motifs during the period were derived from various themes from weeping willows embodying grief to doves which symbolised peace.

It was not uncommon for jewellery to integrate more sentimental ornamentation such as hair. 

Although the market may seem niche, during this period it was highly valuable. Artisans presented the hair in various patterns through the practice of palette work, the hair would often be accompanied with ornate decoration consisting of pearls and gemstones, which were typically set behind a veneer made of glass or enamel. During the course of the nineteenth Century the preparation of hair for mourning jewellery was a widely practiced occupation.  The prominence of the occupation is reinforced by the demand for hair during the mid 1800’s, which saw England import as much as 50 tons of hair on an annual basis to provide for the market for memorial jewellery.